“Up until the gay liberation movement of the late 1960s, the most important criterion of public dress, for the mass of gay men and lesbians, was to be able to ‘pass’ as heterosexual. “The illegality of homosexuality and the moral disapproval it attracted forced gay men and lesbians to live virtually invisible lives in Britain, North America, and much of the world,” writes Shaun Cole, an Associate Professor in Fashion at Winchester School of Art and author of Don We Now Our Gay Apparel. To be sure, people from all backgrounds use fashion to try on different identities, explore their sexualities, find community, and announce their orientation, but clothing is even more critical for people in the LGBTQ community. The urban lumberjack look is also one of the many examples of how gay men and lesbians have used clothing as a way to navigate a challenging world. Then the more general public will adopt a look once it’s reintroduced as fashionable (and then, the original in-group meaning is lost). The first will often take things from broader culture, remix it, and make something their own. The border between the queer community and popular fashion is porous. This isn’t the first time this has happened.
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Crew designer fell in love with how an old boot style could be worn in new ways. And it was through that community that a J. At some point, the look was picked up by a segment of the LGBTQ community, where it took on new meaning.
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The pieces are generally timeless, but they come together in a way that shows the fit and styling are more about broadcasting identity than performing manual labor. Although it’s often billed as a classic, it’s really a new invention. The urban lumberjack uniform took off in the early 2000s thanks in part to hipster culture.
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“Flannel was one way to signify, like, I exist.” Now when she sees someone wearing a plaid flannel shirt, she wonders if they’re a bike messenger.
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Where Pulley’s from, some women style their plaid flannels in a way to show they’re part of a group, but in San Francisco, where every office looks like a sawmill, they’re just part of a middle-class uniform. “Midwestern queer culture is extremely different from Bay Area queer culture, and one of the things that stood out to me was the difference in fashion,” she says. When she moved from the Midwest to San Francisco, she didn’t know who to hit on anymore because the language of unspoken dress codes had changed. Crew.”Īnna Pulley, the author of The Lesbian Sex Haiku Book (with Cats!), says about as much in the opening of Articles of Interest’s second podcast episode. I just loved how they wore them with slim jeans and plaid flannel shirts, so I helped to bring the brand into J. Muytjens continued: “Red Wings were popular with lesbians there.
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It’s home to expensive art galleries, hip rooftop bars, and one of the city’s largest LGBTQ communities. When it came to Red Wing, Muytjens said plainly: “I saw them in Chelsea.” Chelsea, for those unaware, is Manhattan’s art district. Crew’s much-revered “In Good Company” section, which is where many American men first get introduced to storied names such as Barbour and Alden. We talked about his design process, his love for vintage, and how he chooses which third-party brands get included in J. Once made for loggers, carpenters, and longshoreman, the preppy clothier has since helped mainstream these blue-collar styles into white-collar offices.Ī few years ago, I had the chance to interview Frank Muytjens, then the head of menswear design at J. Crew showcased their collection of Red Wing heritage work boots. Thick cashmere cardigans were draped over Globetrotter suitcases striped rep ties rolled into lowball glasses. In the corner of one area, a bookshelf was stacked with Strand-issued classics - Kerouac, Hemingway, and Cheever among them. Dimly lit rooms were covered in plush leather chairs, oriental rugs, and wood paneling. Crew debuted their Liquor Store ten years ago, they transformed an after-hours watering hole into a menswear-only boutique laden with 1960s-era references to traditional masculinity.